are these any good? http://us.eukanuba.com/EukGlobal/US/en/jsp/product/productDetail/Labrador%20Retriever.jsp
anyone using this product? if so how is it compared to high end dog food such as Canidae, Eagle pack, innova, etc.... thanks

I wish I had an answer for you. But it would be interesting to know if anyone here has used it and what opinion they have of it. I have four dogs and the cost would be far too great for me. I would imagine that it would come down to the ingredients and whether or not they were acctually more beneficial. I would like to know what the "microcrystals" are that "scrub" a dogs teeth.

I haven't used it, and can't remember seeing anyone else comment on it here.

I think your best bet is to teach yourself how to read dog food labels (there's a sticky in the FAQ giving guidelines for choosing a good food for your dog) and using that info, choose from foods that meet that criteria, that you can afford, and I think its also valuable if it's something you can obtain reliably and locally (no good choosing what sounds like a wonderful food and then not being able to buy some when you need it or having to drive 50 miles to buy it or return it if there's a problem).

The best food is the food your dog does best on; you'll find a lot of discussion here on this topic, but over time you'll find that a high quality food that some people swear by will turn out to have been a disaster for an equal number of others.

Here's the ingredient list & Guaranteed Analysis for the Eukanuba Labrador food:
Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley, Chicken By-Product Meal (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), Fish meal, Natural Chicken Flavor, Dried Beet Pulp (sugar removed), Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Dried Egg Product, Brewers Dried Yeast, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Salt, Flax Meal, Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of Vitamin B1), Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of Vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of Vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Fish Oil (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Dicalcium Phosphate, Choline Chloride, Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), DL-Methionine, Dried Chicken Cartilage (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), L-Carnitine, Rosemary Extract.

Crude Protein not less than 23.00%, Crude Fat not less than 13.00%, Crude Fiber not more than 5.00%, Moisture not more than 10.00%, Copper not less than 27 mg/kg, Zinc not less than 188 mg/kg, Vitamin E not less than 140 IU/kg, L-Carnitine not less than 30 mg/kg*, Omega-6 Fatty Acids not less than 2.4%*, Omega-3 Fatty Acids not less than 0.3%*, Glucosamine not less than 375 mg/kg*, Chondroitin Sulfate not less than 35 mg/kg*.

I wouldnt feed this to my dogs... also look how few cal per cup this product has
Description:
Feeding guideline:
A 50lb dog should be fed 2 1/3 cups


Metabolizable energy:
350 kcal/cup


Ingredients
Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley, Chicken By-Product Meal (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), Fish meal, Natural Chicken Flavor, Dried Beet Pulp (sugar removed), Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Dried Egg Product, Brewers Dried Yeast, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Salt, Flax Meal, Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Ascorbic Acid, Beta-Carotene, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of Vitamin B1), Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of Vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of Vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Fish Oil (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Dicalcium Phosphate, Choline Chloride, Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), DL-Methionine, Dried Chicken Cartilage (Natural source of Chondroitin Sulfate and Glucosamine), L-Carnitine, Rosemary Extract.


Guaranteed analysis:
Crude Protein not less than 23.00%
Crude Fat not less than 13.00%
Crude Fiber not more than 5.00%
Moisture not more than 10.00%
Copper not less than 27 mg/kg
Zinc not less than 188 mg/kg
Vitamin E not less than 140 IU/kg
L-Carnitine not less than 30 mg/kg*
Omega-6 Fatty Acids not less than 2.4%*
Omega-3 Fatty Acids not less than 0.3%*
Glucosamine not less than 375 mg/kg*
Chondroitin Sulfate not less than 35 mg/kg*



The first ingredient in the food is a named meat product. This is not a meal ingredient. It is inclusive of water content (about 80%). Once that is removed, as it must be to create a dehydrated product, the ingredient will weigh around 20% of its wet weight. Ingredients are listed in order of weight, and the dehydrated ingredient would probably be more accurately placed much further down the ingredient list. It is highly unlikely that this ingredient makes any significant contribution to the overall meat content of the food. The main meat ingredient in the food is byproducts, 5th on the ingredient list. It is impossible to ascertain the quality of by-products and these are usually products that are of such low quality as to be rejected for use in the human food chain, or else are those parts that have so little value that they cannot be used elsewhere in either the human or pet food industries. The AAFCO definition of chicken by-product meal is “a meal consisting of the ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcass of slaughtered chicken, such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs and intestines, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidable in good processing practice.” Since the glucosamine and chondroitin are sourced from cartillage and bone (present in all meat and meat meal ingredients, unless de-boned), we consider advertising of this to be a gimmick. The amounts of these substances in the food are far below useful or therapudic levels, as is the case in all dog food products.In addition to this being a very low quality ingredient, we note that since it is the main meat ingredient and only 5th on the ingredient list, this food is extremely light in meat content. It is primarily a collection of grain.


The main grains in the food are corn, sorghum and barley. Corn is a cheap grain that is difficult to digest and commonly associated with food allergies. Sorghum is decent quality, as is barley amongst the minor ingredients. Beet pulp is controversial filler which appears to be used in large quantities in this food. It is a by-product, being dried residue from sugar beets which has been cleaned and extracted in the process of manufacturing sugar. It is a controversial ingredient in dog food, claimed by some manufacturers to be a good source of fibre, and derided by others as an ingredient added to slow down the transition of rancid animal fats and causing stress to kidney and liver in the process. We note that beet pulp is an ingredient that commonly causes problems for dogs, including allergies and ear infections, and prefer not to see it used in dog food. There are less controversial products around if additional fibre is required.


Fish meal is a further meat ingredient in the food, but it is far too far down the ingredient list to make any significant contribution to the overall meat content of the food. We find no sign on the manufacturer's website of a guarantee that only ethoxyquin-free protein ingredients are used in this food (ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative, commonly added to fish ingredients, and that is banned or heavily regulated in human food due to the belief that it is carcinogenic).

i'm no pro on the food thing, but at first glance (with the ingredient list posted above):
chicken is the first ingredient which is good. BUT, from my understanding, there is alot of water in chicken, so once the water is removed it would go way down the list. I hear it's better to have "chicken meal" as the first ingredietn (or chicken, the chicken meal for example).
Then the next ingredients are grains. that's alot of grains.

So it's very high in grains. but if my dog were already on this food, and was looking good, I wouldn't change (don't mess with what works for your dog). But if I were looking to change from my current food this is not one I would consider.

BUT - disclaimer here - go with what works for your dog.

Now for example, look at Innova adult:
http://www.innovapet.com/products/default.asp?id=1

first ingredients are turkey, chicken, chicken meal, barley... - so the first THREE are meats and there is a "meal" in there.

As for Canidea,all life stage chicken formula you have as listed below. The "meal" is first which is better than just the chicken being first.
http://www.canidae.com/dogs/chicken-and-rice/dry.html
Chicken Meal, Brown Rice, White Rice, Chicken Fat (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Flax Seed, Sun Cured Alfalfa Meal, Sunflower Oil, Chicken, Lecithin, Monocalcium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Linoleic Acid, Rosemary Extract, Sage Extract, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Mixed Tocopherols (source of Vitamin E), Zinc Amino Acid Chelate, Manganese Amino Acid Chelate, Iron Amino Acid Chelate, Copper Amino Acid Chelate, Cobalt Amino Acid Chelate, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Ascorbic Acid (source of Vitamin C), Niacin, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin (source of B2), Beta Carotene, Calcium Pantothenate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Calcium Iodate, Folic Acid, D-Biotin, Sodium Selenite, Dried Papaya, Vitamin B12 Supplement.

compare my above post to what i feed my dogs
evo red meat

Feeding guideline:
A 50lb dog should be fed 2.2 Cups - 265.01 g, 1,069.33 Kcal/day


Calorie Content:
4,035 kcal/kg (121 g = 1 cup)
487 kcal/cup (4.26 oz = 1 cup)


Ingredients:
Beef, lamb meal, potatoes, egg, sunflower oil, buffalo, lamb, venison, beef cartilage, herring oil, natural flavors, apples, carrots, tomatoes, alfalfa sprouts, garlic, cottage cheese, potassium chloride, vitamins/minerals, ascorbic acid, dried chicory root, direct-fed microbials, vitamin E supplement, lecithin, rosemary extract.


Guaranteed analysis:
Crude Protein (min) 42 %
Crude Fat (min) 22 %
Crude Fiber (max) 2.5 %
Moisture (max) 10 %
Linoleic Acid (Omega-6 Fatty Acid) (min) 1.2 %
Carbohydrates NFE (max) 15 %
Vitamin E (min) 300 IU/kg
Vitamin C (min) 500 mg/kg
Omega-3 Fatty Acids (min) 0.4 %
Docosahexaenoic Acid (min) 0.1 %
Total Microorganisms (min) 90,000,000 CFU/lb

I hear it's better to have "chicken meal" as the first ingredietn

rocky, the reason is when it says meal thats meaning once its dehydrated and put into the dog food form, so yes meal is much better to see next to it... when it is including water weight, the water makes up almost all of the weight, and of course water doesnt provide nutrients...

Thanks :)
Ohhh Evo red meat - that is what I wanted to buy but the store was out. I"ll probably be switching between Orijen and Evo Red Meat (I'm going to TRY the "changing" thing, if it doesn't work I'll stick with the food that had the best impact on Rocky)

The food roller coaster can be rough at times! So much to learn! I'm picking up bits and pieces every day though.

Oops, wrong thread.. Carry on...

3dog good catch on the holes in the food. However even on eukanubas website it lists chicken, not chicken meal as the first ingr, now it does have chicken meal farther down on the list but its chicken by product meal. Ugh.
where did you pull the list?

Oh yeah second on the eukanuba list is corn meal. Yum!! LOL

3dog- I've been outside bbqin and drinkin since noon, don't try to confuse me LOL.

Have never used the product simply because both my furkids breeders did not advise it.
The "right kibble" search is a really difficult one. Whatever you find works for your dogs.

In my opinion, there are much healthier choices available for your dog.

Foods like Eagle Pack, Innova, California Natural, Nature's Variety, Solid Gold...rate much higher than Eukanuba. I also feel that "breed specific" foods are quite "gimmicky" and not necessary.

I would not feed Eukanuba to my dogs for the reasons above. Corn meal as the second ingredient?...come on!

lovemylabby- thanks couldnt think if the right word. Gimmick!!!

thanks for all the advice. he's doing good on euakanuba but we just want the best for him so we're gonna switch him to eaglepack or innova. how much does it go for?

the price varies depending on the region (abit) but Innova will be more expensive the Euk I would think. When comparing prices, do not forget to compare kcal per cup. Some foods are ALOT more per bag but you feed your dog fewer cups a day (for example, I am down to 3 cups a day on Orijen)

the price varies depending on the region (abit) but Innova will be more expensive the Euk I would think. When comparing prices, do not forget to compare kcal per cup. Some foods are ALOT more per bag but you feed your dog fewer cups a day (for example, I am down to 3 cups a day on Orijen)Much as some of the dog food companies would like you to believe this, kcals per cup are essentially meaningless when comparing the cost of different foods. Kcals per cup are often just a reflection of the size and shape of the kibble.

The only meaningful way to compare price is to look at kcals/kg (or kcals/lb) of metabolizable energy. This will allow you to estimate the number of feedings per bag and thus the actual cost per feeding. :tup2:


As an example, Kirkland Puppy has 356 kcal/cup while Wellness Puppy has 450 kcal/cup. Which food has the higher caloric density?

Unfortunately, there's no way to tell with the information given. ;) It might surprise you to learn they are nearly identical in kcals per kg - 3781 vs. 3800. Even though you'd need to feed the average Lab puppy about a cup more of the Kirkland each day, 20 pounds of Kirkland would last just as long as 20 pounds of Wellness. :)

Thank you for clearing that up 3dognite :)
I just ment to say be careful because with some foods you feed more than others (I used to feed 4 cups of a grain kibble but now feed 3 cups of a high protein/grain free food so I had to figure out how long a bag last then compare prices...meaning I could afford to pay abit more on grain free bag that would last longer) :)

just go off of the kcal/kg and youll be fine. 125 oz to a cup (avg) 450oz to a # (roughly) 2.2# to a kilo

thanks for all this useful information. unfortunately no store that i know of sell innova, eagle pack, and canidae. they only have commercial brands. i think theres this store thats about 35 miles away from us that sell eagle pack buti have to confirm on that. with gas prices ($4.50/gl) going up each day, that would add even more to the costs. knw of any websites that would ship to hawaii for a reasonable price? thanks!

I personally would not feed this food either for many of the reasons already mentioned.

I did pick up a sample bag of this at a Specialty Show last weekend and opened it the other night to use as treats. I could not believe how big the pieces are!

Poor Beckham had one heck of a time chewing them.

Got Labs - contact the lab breeders in Hawaii and ask what they feed their labs. I know that I am more than willing to order in a few extra bags for my puppy people to help shave on shipping/cost of the food.

I've heard that Flint River Ranch (http://www.flintriver.com/) is a decent food and will ship for free.

I've heard that Flint River Ranch (http://www.flintriver.com/) is a decent food and will ship for free.

At $40 for 9lbs, they better come and hand feed it. :eek:

thanks for all the advice. he's doing good on euakanuba but we just want the best for him so we're gonna switch him to eaglepack or innova. how much does it go for?

If he's doing well on what he's eating, why would you want to change it? Because some random people on the internet, that have never seen your dog, don't like the brand?? That's silly in my opinion. I know a number of labrador breeders who feed eukanuba's Lab formula and get wonderful results with it! I've personally tried pretty much every single "high end" brand out there and keep coming back to a food that most of the food gurus on the pet forums are dead set against....but I get good results with it and my dogs condition speaks for itself.

Feed what works.

At $40 for 9lbs, they better come and hand feed it. :eek:

I'm not sure where you saw that - I see $53.99 for 40 lbs....:confused:

ETA: Ohh you're quoting for the wet food price...

FG167- yeah I found it online for mid $50s for 40#s
at that other price posted my dog had better learn to mow my lawn and 3 other neighbors lawns to pay for that

If he's doing well on what he's eating, why would you want to change it? Because some random people on the internet, that have never seen your dog, don't like the brand?? That's silly in my opinion. I know a number of labrador breeders who feed eukanuba's Lab formula and get wonderful results with it! I've personally tried pretty much every single "high end" brand out there and keep coming back to a food that most of the food gurus on the pet forums are dead set against....but I get good results with it and my dogs condition speaks for itself.

Feed what works.


I agree with Nicole. Some dogs just don't do well on some foods and others great.

One of my puppies does best on the same food that I believe Nicole is talking about and it would make other's cring! He is in fabulous shape and is pointed towards his championship.

I know that my lines don't do well on Eukanuba - it is just too rich for them and it goes right through them.

Feed what works!

I have been using Eukanuba for past 3 years. I don't think I would buy anything else. I've been using Labrador Specific for past 1.5yrs.

Anything you hear on commercials are worthless to get. I rarely hear Eukanuba so I know they don't need advertising to make sales. It's a high end product.

My Luna is consistant, has energy, is very attentive and the stool is solid and consistant..

With all that said... I want to know myself if she should change food. How do we really know the Glucosamine is really helping the joints? She's going to be 5yrs old, should I start looking for a dietary food?

She's pure bred and the breeder said to give her Eukanuba after I told her she was on Purina One. Pro Plan was her puppy years...

I used Eukanuba for my lab and he lived to be 15 years old. Who knows, it seems there are so many opinions and so many good dog foods. I don't know what to feed my new puppy. He's on Kirkland puppy for now.