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#1 |
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Retriever
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Suberb of Portland, Oregon
Posts: 291
My Mood:
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My dad and I are trying to teach Katie how to do blind retrieves. She was sent to a professional trainer for most of her hunting and obedience training, but she got sick and had to come home early. The trainer did finish her force fetch training...if that helps at all.
I've only tried this a few times, but I didn't want to do it wrong and have her training get messed up . First I put her in the garage, throw the dummy, then get her back out. I take her and make her heel next to me, then I tell her to start the retrieve ("back"). Once she gets out in the yard a little ways, I tell her to sit. She turns around to look at me and sits. I've watched dogs that know how to do this, and their handlers always stick out their right or left hand in the direction of the bird/dummy. I immitate them, but she never understands what it's supposed to mean.Any techniques you have to share would be awesome! It's when I try to signal toward the dummy that she messes up. Every time I tell her to sit, she sits facing me, so that we have down. Jenny
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.:|Jenny|:. ![]() "I swear, Mommy! I didn't do it! I was framed! Does this face make it look like I did it?!" ![]() Katie | black lab | born: April 19, 2005 Whiskers | kitty | born: 2000 |
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#2 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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It sounds like you need to do some directional training. You need to show your dog what you want from her first.
I am no expert by any means but this is what I did. I did refer to a book and DVD called Waterdog. As well I now use the Lardy DVD's, to further develop my dog and my training abilities. Stand with your dog in front of you with a pile of bumpers to 10 - 20ft to your left (or right) toss another bumper to the pile. Now let it be understood that when your dog starts catching on extend the distances you are casting. If your casting to the left, say over and point to your left, your dog should go to the pile. Keep repeating this, for both sides. I focused on one side and then switched to the other a couple of days later. As for backs I did the same, I had my dog in front of me with a pile of bumpers about 10 - 20ft behind her. Tossed a bumper to the pile, gave the command back as I raised my hand over my head. I repeated this over and over until she got the idea. I then would then take out three bumpers, toss them out in any order, right, left, top and send my dog for the last bumper thrown, using the command necessary, then send her for the others. I did this when I new the concept stuck. This process has been going on now for about a month, and we are just starting to introduce blinds, as well as a Single T and the occasional Double T. I wanted to make sure I could "Handle" her before I did blinds. Hope this helps. |
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#3 |
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Adult Retriever
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 452
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You need to carry on where Force Fetch ended. There are a lot of drills to do after force fetch, they are building blocks. This is a flow chart that will show you how to build on each one http://www.totalretriever.com/flowchart.htm. Good luck.
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#4 |
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Retriever
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Clarence NY
Posts: 349
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Start the dog with very short distance blind retrieves. This will provide success for dog (dogs do not learn from failure) and build confidence and dog's understanding of what you want. Start off with dog 20 foot away in front of you and place dummy in taller grass about 5 to 7 foot to the right or left. Stop the dog at 20 foot and then motion left or right to where dummy lies with command "over". Get very excited when dog finds hidden item. Dog must always know that there is item to be found and that you would not send on "wild goose chase". Continue to move dummy further away as dog learns. When you get further out, you can add a scent to the dummy to help dog find it.
Ditto to the Waterdog Video having good training on this subject. |
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