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  1. #1
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    New puppy and constant biting

    Hey guys! New here! I've grown up with labs all my life but 3 years out of grad school I've finally opted to get my own. I finally got him and he's going on 10 weeks old. I wanted him specifically for waterfowl hunting but I'm joining a retriever club and am going to get into hunt tests with him also.

    ANYWHO.... To the problem. He's not a morning pup so I don't train him before work, we just walk slash hang out. THen I train him at noon and at 6:30, if he's down for it. I'm following the Hillmann routine.

    Ever since the second day I've had him he's had a TERRIBLE biting problem. If he's not training or not drowsy/tired he is always biting and biting hard. I say ouch out loud to him and pull him off me and put an antler/rope in his mouth but he'll drop it and come right back to biting me. When he's biting I try and stop playing with him and just sit there but he'll bite anywhere, doesn't matter if I put my hands out. I've turned him on his back to show dominance but that didn't do anything, it's a temporary fix for a minute or two. THat didn't work, then I tried crating him for a couple minutes when he bites too much and that didn't work, he comes outta the crate guns a blazin'

    Anyone have any input on what I can do?

  2. #2
    Senior Dog TuMicks's Avatar
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    Hillmann rocks. Excellent approach for an amateur.

    The retriever club is essential. Getting with a training group is essential and the retriever club is a way to meet the people in your area who have the same passion you do. Even though a huge amount of the Hillmann method is stuff you can do on your own, you will eventually need to have folks throw birds for your dog.

    I think 99% of the responses you're going to get with regard to your question about biting is... this is so very normal for a dog this age. The only variable is how obsessed one pup might be over another and if you have a field bred lab... they can be pretty darned obsessed.

    Also, you'll get a variety of suggestions from people about what worked for them when their pup did the exact same thing. The methods will range from very soft (distraction is excellent) to more firm (snout grabbing, loud "NO!") I'd say begin with the very softest method you can get away with. Be consistent is the common denominator for all training.

    He'll be fine.

    Oh, and did I mention, you'll also read folks who are adamantly opposed to snout grabbing and loud "NO!". But it isn't their skin. Like I said, go soft if possible. Be consistent. Be loving. Talk to the folks in the retriever club.

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  4. #3
    Senior Dog Labradorks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teej89 View Post
    Hey guys! New here! I've grown up with labs all my life but 3 years out of grad school I've finally opted to get my own. I finally got him and he's going on 10 weeks old. I wanted him specifically for waterfowl hunting but I'm joining a retriever club and am going to get into hunt tests with him also.

    ANYWHO.... To the problem. He's not a morning pup so I don't train him before work, we just walk slash hang out. THen I train him at noon and at 6:30, if he's down for it. I'm following the Hillmann routine.

    Ever since the second day I've had him he's had a TERRIBLE biting problem. If he's not training or not drowsy/tired he is always biting and biting hard. I say ouch out loud to him and pull him off me and put an antler/rope in his mouth but he'll drop it and come right back to biting me. When he's biting I try and stop playing with him and just sit there but he'll bite anywhere, doesn't matter if I put my hands out. I've turned him on his back to show dominance but that didn't do anything, it's a temporary fix for a minute or two. THat didn't work, then I tried crating him for a couple minutes when he bites too much and that didn't work, he comes outta the crate guns a blazin'

    Anyone have any input on what I can do?
    It's normal, especially with field Labs. Whatever you do, do it consistently. You have listed about three our four things you've tried in the two weeks you've had him. It takes time to work, months, don't just try one thing a couple times then move in to something else because it's not working. It's a process. A long one. He probably doesn't even know what no means yet. I would not push him or pull him because that is a game and it is attention. If you do the stop playing method, you've got to get up and leave the room, your back to him. Just sitting there won't work. And please do not fall victim to the dominance method. It's not a thing and has been disproven. Throwing them on their backs, alpha rolls, all that stuff is garbage and a good way to get bitten. Grabbing by the snout can get people bitten, too. There are other methods that are not as challenging. One is putting the lip on the tooth when he bites. Another person gagged their pup a bit by sticking their fingers down the back of the throat a bit to be uncomfortable. I prefer methods that make the pup think that the act of doing the biting causes discomfort, not necessarily me.

  5. #4
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    Yeah he's definitely a field bred lab, and it really doesn't bother me it's just that when people come over and I have him out of his crate, they want to pet and play with him but all he does it bite and nip at them.

    I think I need to go to the snout grabbing method, that's the only thing that will keep him from nipping me back right away. Turning my back towards him he just starts biting my back/pulling on my shirt. Leaving the room he has a hissy fit and starts trying to jump on the couch or dig at the couch to get under. I've tried the lip method and he will just move around until my finger isn't holding his lip on his tooth and then he'll clamp down on my hand again. A toy can distract him for a second or two but then he'll go after whatever body part of mine that's nearest him. Let it be known he's gotten a hold of some very sensitive things lol....

  6. #5
    Senior Dog Meeps83's Avatar
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    I don't think Maverick was horrible as far as biting goes. He did the lunge and nip thing. Eventually what worked was just leaving him and when he didn't get the message we put him in his crate for a nap. I'd say by the time he was 12 weeks the biting was getting better and by the time he was 20 weeks he was no longer mouthing/nipping/biting. We tried a number of thing as well, like you have.

    One thing that was recommended to us was "puppy push-ups" to redirect his energy. Initially it uses hand signals to direct your pup to sit, lay down, or stand. This gives your pup a job to do instead of just nipping at you. Plus it works on commands AND hand signals. I still do this when Maverick acts like a nut.

    Check out this link. You can also Google or YouTube it and find other hints or suggestions. It sound like your guy will be insistent and driven and is probably pretty smart. Teach him as much as you can as soon as you can to keep his brain working. Good luck, welcome to the board, and we'd love to see pics!

    Bad Dog: Simple Commands 4 - Puppy Pushups (for any age)

  7. #6
    Senior Dog TuMicks's Avatar
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    TJ... I think people here are going to object to the snout grabbing. But it's up to you. I do not think the purpose of any approach is to cause the puppy pain. But at the same time, you don't want to confuse the puppy. The value of the snout-hold is that it is immediate and directly related to the behavior you want to limit. Behavior A gets response B. This is not what you do with your mouth. Not hard for pup to understand.

    And then he gets his baby bumper and you have an immediate play episode where he uses his mouth for fun stuff.

    Field dogs are going to have to deliver birds to your hand, so we want to avoid making them hand-shy. But this has never been a problem for me and I've had field bred labs since the 1970's.

    The whole issue of getting the pup to be sweet and perfect around visitors is another whole deal. These labs are so excited to be with people... any people... they just come unglued. Your pup is really young. People just have to understand that. Let you're guests ooh and ah over him and pet him, make the interactions positive and happy, then put pup in his crate and enjoy your friends. It's just asking too much to expect him to behave well around new people at this point.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TuMicks View Post
    TJ... I think people here are going to object to the snout grabbing. But it's up to you. I do not think the purpose of any approach is to cause the puppy pain. But at the same time, you don't want to confuse the puppy. The value of the snout-hold is that it is immediate and directly related to the behavior you want to limit. Behavior A gets response B. This is not what you do with your mouth. Not hard for pup to understand.

    And then he gets his baby bumper and you have an immediate play episode where he uses his mouth for fun stuff.

    Field dogs are going to have to deliver birds to your hand, so we want to avoid making them hand-shy. But this has never been a problem for me and I've had field bred labs since the 1970's.

    The whole issue of getting the pup to be sweet and perfect around visitors is another whole deal. These labs are so excited to be with people... any people... they just come unglued. Your pup is really young. People just have to understand that. Let you're guests ooh and ah over him and pet him, make the interactions positive and happy, then put pup in his crate and enjoy your friends. It's just asking too much to expect him to behave well around new people at this point.
    You do the snout grab then? A light punishment does nothing to him, he's too energetic, it seems like he needs a solid stop in play time where he's focused on me to calm down a little. That's why I was leaning towards the snout grab.

  9. #8
    Senior Dog Labradorks's Avatar
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    Just be careful on a puppy like this. Stronger "punishment" can actually ramp them up or cause defensiveness.

  10. #9
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    I've always found the snout grab to get a puppy more excited and they snap at your hands. And it can last into adulthood as the get defensive about hands in their face. I've actually seen people get into a standoff/battle of wills with a puppy and the snout grab: puppy bites, person grabs snout, puppy snaps, person grabs snout, puppy barks and snaps again, person grabs snout more firmly, frustrated now...you get the picture. It can escalate quickly and not do much good.

    There's a great sticky in the puppy section that goes over a lot of really great methods. Try checking that out.

    Bottom line, he's 10 weeks old. You will see improvement very, very slowly. It won't go away with one or two corrections. I'm on my second puppy now, and I've had a bad biter field type, and a non biter. With the biter, we were very firm and consistent, and he still was quite mouthy until about 5 months old. Looking back (he's 2 now), I'm SO glad I never got too rough with him or too frustrated. I'd feel so bad now.
    Laura, Archie & Quinn
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  11. #10
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    Yeah I am concerned about the defensiveness and him having issues w/ hands in the face later on since he will be a hunting and hunt test dog. I'm just not sure how else to resolve it, I did the lip on the tooth and he just keeps gnawing away but a little lighter.

    Should I be telling him "no" or "quit" everytime he bites? I know he doesn't understand "no" so I'm torn if I should start and eventually he'll get it.

 



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