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Thread: Harness?

  1. #11
    Senior Dog windycanyon's Avatar
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    Just curious, but what type of prong did you try? It's hard to believe that a real prong (like a Herm Sprenger) didn't work.
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  3. #12
    Real Retriever KenZ71's Avatar
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    Both my labs think they are sled dogs and pull as if I was on one.

    However if I keep the leash very short so that their collars are just about at my knee they walk much nicer.

    One of my neighbors drops a couple pieces of kibble every 10 feet. This way his dogs stay behind him, usually off leash with their nose to the ground. I would never try off leash but its impressive to see.
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  5. #13
    House Broken HammerLover's Avatar
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    Head Harness seem to work well.
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  6. #14
    Senior Dog Meeps83's Avatar
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    We have an easy walk harness. It has the clasp on the chest so that when he pulls it actually slows him down. It doesn't completely stop, but it gives us more control so that we can handle him while we work on training with treats. We were recommended this type of harness by our dog trainer and it so far has been great. We're thinking of getting one four our other dog. The gentle lead thing was a failure for her too. She walked with her head on the ground as well.

  7. #15
    Senior Dog WhoopsaDaisy's Avatar
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    Head Halti- it is more cushiony than the gentle leader.
    + plus lots of leash walking practice/training
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  8. #16
    House Broken HammerLover's Avatar
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    How were you using the prong? Prongs only work when used correctly.
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  9. #17
    Puppy PuppyLove28's Avatar
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    Thank you for the suggestions everyone.

    The type of leash we use is just a 6ft leather lead. I also have a nylon lead (6ft) with a loop at the end and an additional loop near the clasp. We don't use Flexi leads.

    Im sorry I cant remember the name of the prong collar. It was purchased from Petsmart and then returned there when we didn't have much success with it. It was fitted there and they showed me how to use it. Maybe something was done wrong, I cant be sure. But I would rather spend $$/time on further training than try this method again.

    As for trainers, I should be more clear. I didn't send them there; we went together as a team to classes.

    I agree that more training is needed. It is definitely a very frustrating situation and I think I find so more lately. We just moved and don't have sod around the house so we have all of our potty breaks walking up and down the street. Another lab owner on the street had suggested a harness (he was using one for his puppy) so I thought I would give it a go. I guess I am being lazy and hoping for an easy solution. Im going to reread the training tips and work on this, maybe find another trainer in our new area and try again. For those that have pullers, how do you differentiate between a 'heel' walk and a casual walk where he can sniff around (we like to walk on forest trails and he enjoys smelling everything, as every dog does. He cannot be offlead).

    Thank you again.

  10. #18
    Senior Dog Tanya's Avatar
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    for a puller I highly recommend a 4ft leash. VERY hard to control pulling when they are out 6ft (or have any real control).

    "heel" for me is a working position. I have a command (which is just heel haha) for getting into that position and it's for short training periods. Beyond that I only require loose leash so I don't get a sore shoulder/back/arm

    One technique is you stop if the dog pulls. move forward when he leaves it loose. Yes this means walks are not very far at all at first

    There is no tool that will solve hte issue, the tools help you maintain control and possibly help manage back pain but they in no way teach a dog to not pull, especially if this is a dog that was pulling on a prong to cause injury (which is unusual).

  11. #19
    Senior Dog Tanya's Avatar
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    you say he cannot be off leash, does he have a place he can run and play regularly? (a yard or fenced park?)

  12. #20
    Best Friend Retriever xracer4844's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuppyLove28 View Post
    Thank you for the suggestions everyone.

    The type of leash we use is just a 6ft leather lead. I also have a nylon lead (6ft) with a loop at the end and an additional loop near the clasp. We don't use Flexi leads.

    Im sorry I cant remember the name of the prong collar. It was purchased from Petsmart and then returned there when we didn't have much success with it. It was fitted there and they showed me how to use it. Maybe something was done wrong, I cant be sure. But I would rather spend $$/time on further training than try this method again.

    As for trainers, I should be more clear. I didn't send them there; we went together as a team to classes.

    I agree that more training is needed. It is definitely a very frustrating situation and I think I find so more lately. We just moved and don't have sod around the house so we have all of our potty breaks walking up and down the street. Another lab owner on the street had suggested a harness (he was using one for his puppy) so I thought I would give it a go. I guess I am being lazy and hoping for an easy solution. Im going to reread the training tips and work on this, maybe find another trainer in our new area and try again. For those that have pullers, how do you differentiate between a 'heel' walk and a casual walk where he can sniff around (we like to walk on forest trails and he enjoys smelling everything, as every dog does. He cannot be offlead).

    Thank you again.
    Training is definitely needed. The only reason dogs pull is because they have not been taught to not pull. I know that sounds silly but that's the truth. I would suggest using a slip chain - that's all we use ever. Its extremely not natural for a dog to walk beside their handler at a nice heal. You need to teach it. The correct heal is dog on the left side with his right ear on your left leg. Don't worry about the right side yet - once you learn how to heal on one side you can transition to the right side and moving the dog behind you into a heel(left) and into a foose(right).

    If the dogs ear gets ahead of you - correct. If the dog falls behind you, give some small pops on the collar to bring him forward. Praise for the correct heel position. I don't use food to teach this AT ALL. I don't use food for any type of obedience training - I only use food for teaching actions (like opening a door or turning on the lights, or more simply a bow, or a sit up).

    Every time the dog PULLS and moves in a "forward" direction they think that this is what they must do. They don't realize that they are dragging you behind. The fact that they pull and move forward is enough reward for them.

    I absolutely do not recommend using a harness or a halti or any other type of device because they are just making the pulling more tolerable for you - the dog doesn't know not to pull. A harness is actually helping your dog to pull. It's giving them more to pull against.

    If you continue with obedience training - hopefully your trainer will teach you a "release" command meaning they are in charge and can do as they please now. After "working", when I take my dogs working dog cape off, I always say good work praise him and say "okay go on" and he knows that means he can sniff and go to the bathroom etc. When the dog is on leash, and I take him out to the bathroom, I can say "go on do a good boy" and he knows he doesn't need to heel and he can go to the bathroom.

    Once the dog learns how to heel - don't think that you can just remove the leash completely. The way I transition a dog to off-leash heeling is to hold the leash in front of the dog as we watch. The snap in front of the dogs face. The dog will follow the leash. Do turns like right turn, left turn, and swings, and have the dog follow the snap. Eventually you can transition of off lead by using your hands to signal where you want the dog.

 



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