Definition of resource/food guarding

[JenC]

I never overtly removed anything from the dogs in order to "train" them to accept my removing or messing with their food. But then again, the way I run the house, everything is mine. They know it, they don't mess with me. They get their toys, treats and food from me, and if I want it back, I take it back. That's how Jed trains them too. LOL

[Mudlark]

I have never heard of such a weird thing - messing around with the poor dog's food whilst it is trying to eat is supposed to be a good idea???

My dogs are fed in their crates to avoid any messing around with their bowls by anyone else human or canine - and left in peace to eat. I would never want to mess around with their food while they are eating - why on earth try and create a problem!! Howver I would not have and have never had the slightest problem in taking anything away from them - (well except in the case of the puppy, who can swallow things while I'm still trying to fish them out of his mouth!!)

I have seen resource guarding started quite unecessarily in a dog by him being fed in too close proximity to another which kept trying to get hold of his food - in his case the problem would never have arisen had he been able to eat in peace.

[Snowshoe]

I never overtly removed anything from the dogs in order to "train" them to accept my removing or messing with their food. But then again, the way I run the house, everything is mine. They know it, they don't mess with me. They get their toys, treats and food from me, and if I want it back, I take it back. That's how Jed trains them too. LOL

This is what I do as well. I have dropped the cat's pill in the dog's dish. Or too many of the dog's pills. Or heck, I've put their food in switched places by mistake and the cat is on food for hyperthyroidism. I just reach down and take it back. I try to smarten up and not do this too many times but it happens. I don't practice for it. The element of surprise probably helps. LOL.

[JenC]

I also want to add that having them understand that I get what I want can help keep them safe. My pups have been finding dead (or killing??) voles and ground squirrels. I had to chase Tickle and Wrigs down one time because they didn't want to give up their goodie. They both got whomped on their butts and heads (not hard!). The next time it happened and they saw me coming, they dropped it and let me have it! LOL

[Tanya]

edited - never mind

[Shelley]

Resource guarding is such a misunderstood phenomena. The idea is to be able to take a high value item away from your dog for his own safety, in cases where it may be dangerous for them, such as something sharp you don't want them to swallow, or unknown food, and keeping them safe around food and children. You must teach the dog that this is OK, because in the natural dog world, possession is key. I also agree that putting your hand in, or taking your dogs food, will create resource guarding.

This is one of my favorite articles, and I go over it with my puppy families, and we talk about this at length before they go home.

I also teach my families, in conjunction with this, is the "Exchange Program", for things the dogs have, that they shouldn't. My dogs and puppies learn that if they have something, and I want it, if they bring it to me, they get cookies in exchange for the object in question. If I determine that it is safe and not a big deal for them to have whatever it is, I give it back. So, I call them to me, show them I have a cookie, take what they have (and they willingly give it up, this is the beauty of it, no chasing, or gulping of the object before I can get it), I inspect it, and give them either the treat or the object back, or both. My Ally loves our socks, she doesn't chew or swallow them, she just likes to carry them, so I ask her to bring it to me and she does. She doesn't always get a cookie, usually just praise now, but I am not chasing her around the house. She picks up and brings me anything I ask her to.

Anyways, I thought this was an important enough topic to post this, I got it from a local Humane Society.

Food Bowl Exercises

Standard Prevention Exercises for All Non-Guarding Dogs and Puppies


Resource guarding is a natural behavior in dogs. Dogs in the wild go to a lot of trouble to find food, and it is no wonder that guarding is built into them. This behavior is hard wired into your dog, and we must do a few exercises to teach him that it’s OK for us to touch his dinner or possessions.
A dog that guards his food or toys is not a dominant dog. One of the rules of dogdom is that possession is 9/10ths of the law. Any dog, regardless of rank, is entitled to an object until he is done with it…then it is up for grabs. This is the principle your dog will work on unless you teach him otherwise.
Prevention:
Approach your dog while he is eating, and add a bonus, (something that is better than his food), to the dish. Approach from all angles and at different points during the meal, and get others to do likewise. Hide the bonus and add from pocket, pouch or from behind your back, so it is not “previewed” if your dog is okay, lift his bowl to add the bonus, and then give the bowl back.


Here is a simple program for teaching your dog that sharing is cool! This exercise is also a maintenance spot check for former guarders.


Signs of Guarding
• Accelerated eating
• Cessation of eating/”freezing up”
• Glassy or hard eyes
• Growling
• Lip lifting
• Snapping
• Biting




Rehab Exercise 1
1) At mealtime, put down empty food dish
2) Approach dog and empty dish and add a few pieces of kibble
3) Withdraw and repeat until entire meal fed in this manner
4) If dog guards, end mealtime: “too bad”
5) Feed 2-3 meals this way
6) On 4th meal, gradually begin to reduce the time between approaches and increase the amount of kibble per installment so that overlap develops: dog is eating while you re-fill
7) When you have reached the point that you are giving meal in 2-3 installments without any guarding, switch to bonus-addition, as per prevention instructions above (adding bonus while eating and removing bowl to add bonus)




Rehab Exercise 2
1) Approach dog while eating to “safety distance” (pre-guarding distance) and flip bonus at bowl (don’t worry about accuracy), repeating several times in a row
2) Do this for 2-3 meals
3) On 4th meal, decrease distance slightly after first flip
4) If successful (no guarding), continue gradually decreasing distance until you can approach bowl and drop bonus in
5) Switch to prevention exercises

[Snowshoe]

Food Bowl Exercises

Standard Prevention Exercises for All Non-Guarding Dogs and Puppies



Prevention:
Approach your dog while he is eating, and add a bonus, (something that is better than his food), to the dish. Approach from all angles and at different points during the meal, and get others to do likewise. Hide the bonus and add from pocket, pouch or from behind your back, so it is not “previewed” if your dog is okay, lift his bowl to add the bonus, and then give the bowl back.

I see no reason to do this part. IF the dog is eating then there is food in his bowl and lifting it then is messing with his food, stealing it, a punishment, possibly creating a guarding problem. It doesn't matter if the dog is OK, that's the whole point, some dogs become Not Ok if you take their food. The article does not say the bowl should be empty when you lift/take it.

Everything else is pretty well the same as at the Doggone Safe site.

[Shelley]

I see no reason to do this part. IF the dog is eating then there is food in his bowl and lifting it then is messing with his food, stealing it, a punishment, possibly creating a guarding problem. It doesn't matter if the dog is OK, that's the whole point, some dogs become Not Ok if you take their food. The article does not say the bowl should be empty when you lift/take it.

Everything else is pretty well the same as at the Doggone Safe site.

I disagree with you. That part of the exercise is for non reactive dogs, and the dog learns when something yummy is put into the bowl when they get it back. It's no different than my taking something from my dog, and exchanging it for something better like I described above. Would I do this with a food guarding reactive dog, no, and you can certainly skip this step of you'd like.

[smartrock]

I disagree with you. That part of the exercise is for non reactive dogs, and the dog learns when something yummy is put into the bowl when they get it back. It's no different than my taking something from my dog, and exchanging it for something better like I described above. Would I do this with a food guarding reactive dog, no, and you can certainly skip this step of you'd like.

For greagre, I think this is the issue. Since the dog is now 11 months old and showing signs of reactivity, I think skipping the step of removing the bowl is wise. If she was starting with a new puppy, then sure.

[ZoeysMommy]

For greagre, I think this is the issue. Since the dog is now 11 months old and showing signs of reactivity, I think skipping the step of removing the bowl is wise. If she was starting with a new puppy, then sure.

Exactly my thoughts, starting this with a puppy at 8 weeks is much different and is generally safe. At 11 months, they should be left alone while eating.

And this is just my opinion, the more energy that we humans put into these types of issues , the more we hover, poke and prode, the more we create issues that were never there to begin with. Let your dog eat in peace. Relax. If you can stand next to your next while hes eating, walk by without any reaction, then let it go before you really do create a problem

As far as treats, toys, bones, I am going to assume to you have taught your dog drop it and leave it. Things of higher value is where ive personally seen guarding more frequently than feeding time. Make sure your dog knows that everything belongs to you and you are just sharing.