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  1. #1
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    Question Leash Training my rescued 2 yr old black lab

    We have had Buddy for 6 months. He came into our lives as a very loving dog with absolutely no training. He has since learned all the main commands, a few fun ones, and has 18 toys he knows each by name. He's uber smart.

    He is not taking to my leash training. I am leery of choke collars (I used one on a Healer a while back that worked well but have heard bad things since). Flat collars will not work b/c he pulls his head out. I am currently using a harness that buckles on top. It's not working. I stop when he pulls. I change direction when he pulls. It doesn't work, he is always pulling. When he is off leash (we live out in the country) he heals perfectly. I have to leash train him b/c he is way to strong for my wife and we really want to be able to take him with us.

    I have read many articles online but I wanted to hear from Lab owners what works. Especially since he is not a puppy.

  2. #2
    House Broken TT120's Avatar
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    I have tried several methods to get Milo to stop pulling and so far, the only thing that has produced results is when he starts to pull, I stop and do not continue until he backs up a bit to take the tension off the leash and relaxes. Then I start to go again. I use an English slip lead and he will pull against it like it's not even there. I have a face harness that he doesn't pull against but it rides up into his eyes so I don't use it. Keep trying different things until you find something that works.

  3. #3
    Senior Dog POPTOP's Avatar
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    Have you tried a martingale collar? https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Marti...llars+for+dogs I'm posting this link just as an example, not necessarily recommending this particular brand. As Buddy pulls, the collar tightens up and he can't pull out of it. I don't use harnesses mainly because I have seniors (unless they need it for a help walk aid) and all have joined our family with fairly good leash manners.

    Also, have you tried a basic obedience class? A good positive reinforcement class will help you both learn the ins and outs of loose leash walking and give you tons of hints.
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  4. #4
    Senior Dog
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    Personally, I use a prong collar for control along with reinforcement through praise and treats of good behavior, but if you prefer a flat collar I second Poptop’s recommendation of a martingale. We used to use one with Mulder because his neck was so thick his collar would just slip over his head.
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  5. #5
    Best Friend Retriever silverfz's Avatar
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    Easy harness worked for my dog. try it its a simple and petco takes returns with in 30days. You should see the change immediately so try it if not return.
    also do not use a flat leash as first they pull harder and choke them self which cut blood to the brain which fires the panic feeling even more.

  6. #6
    Senior Dog Tanya's Avatar
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    most harnesses will only encourage/help pulling. if you want a harness I encourage you to find one made to help with pulling (ex: EZ walk harness).

    Have you tried treats and reward when he is in a heel? Talk to him to get him interest? remember you want to reward the good to mark that is what you want regardless of tool used How long are you stopping? Does he eventually stop pulling and look back at you? When he does do you reward and praise? Yes it may mean stopping for awhile at first but eventually he should get the idea that if he pulls, he doesn't get anywhere.

    If he is constantly pulling, I would start the training in the yard/property when there are few distractions. once he gets the idea and can get a bit farther you can go out farther. Keep leash walks short as you train especially if you don't need them for exercise and such (they will get longer as he learns how to walk).

    ETA: I assume you just want him to not pull on walks not walk at a perfect heel the entire time? if you want him in an actual HEEL position, you need to train that, start in the house and luring/marking when they are at your side. (phase out lure VERY fast, and hide reward - once he is consistent you can change to random reward). Then you can slowly add a step and more. Along a wall indoors helps. But this is for a formal heel position, most of us don't require a formal heel for an entire walk (just that the dog not pull)

    ETA: a good training class is definitely worth it there are many classes only on loose leash walking to if you don't want to do a regular obedience class
    Last edited by Tanya; 09-16-2016 at 02:01 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Dog Blackboy98's Avatar
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    Double to idea of Prong collars. Wonderful training tools when used properly with proper fit. Many youtube instructionals on how to fit and use them.
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  8. #8
    Senior Dog Snowshoe's Avatar
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    If he heels well off leash can you try telling him that is good and using the same word over and over, probably HEEL, and then use the same word when he is on the leash? This is how you train several things, wait for the dog to do it, give it a name. Potty training, SHake, you could train Sit this way but it's likely faster the way most of us do with luring.

    I agree with classes. It's usually easier to get an idea across in a controlled situation with fewer distractions before transferring it to the big, wide world.
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  9. #9
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    Thelabradorsite.com has an article on loose lead training. My puppy hasn't had his last parvo shot yet and he tends to stay by my side in our yard so I haven't done it yet, but it makes sense to me. Has anyone tried it? It seems like it requires a certain amount of training on the part of the owner.

  10. #10
    Best Friend Retriever Java's Avatar
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    I don't know if my experience with Boomer can translate to Buddy (Boomer was an older adult when I got him). He actually walked well at first but I gave him leeway to sniff as he pleased and he turned into a puller. When he charged forward for a cat outside, knocked me off my feet and dragged me on my back halfway across the front lawn, I realized he could easily cause me major injury. Getting him to walk loose leash became a priority.

    I tried the stop-change direction suggestion but got nowhere. Knew I needed a trainer to train me but didn't know who to go to. While I looked for one, I started carrying part of his breakfast kibble in my left pocket during our morning walks. Whenever he randomly walked beside me on my left side, his nose at my leg, I dropped my hand down with some kibble and allowed him to "discover" it. He soon started to try to train me to give him kibble whenever he bopped my dangling hand with his nose. That's when I started randomizing and spacing out the kibbles. Sometimes my hand was empty, sometimes one kibble, sometimes a handful (tried to time those for when he came back from sniffing and he resumed his heel).

    This technique worked great! He heeled beautifully and kept his focus on me - so much so, people commented on how "adoringly" he watched me as we walked. Unfortunately, it wasn't relaxing for me even when I only rewarded him two, three times in a 45-minute walk. I wanted him to relax, to look around as we walked.

    The trainer we eventually went to advised no food rewards. Lots of happy praise (but not after correction which was quick and brief). She had me switch Boomer to a martingale collar (one with a chain, not the webbed kind I was using). Whenever Boomer started getting ahead of me, I had to give the collar a quick sideways pop (not a yank). The key was not to pull backwards or forwards which encouraged resistance. She also showed me how to catch Boomer just as he began to get ahead of me. Timing was everything. Lots of praise and happy talk too.

    If I'd only read about the concept (like here), I'd never have mastered it. I think no matter what method you use, your trainer makes a huge difference to your success.

    About three walks was all it took for Boomer to settle down and walk relaxed (although it could be because he did know how to walk loose leash in the first place). I have Boomer practice a proper heel at least once per walk but mostly I let him walk loose and sniff as he pleases. It's a much happier, relaxed walk for both of us. I can even grab a coffee and bring it along.

    It's all great unless he spots a cat. Lucky for me, the training has slowed Boomer's process of chasing a cat. Now he alerts to the cat first, his ears perk up, and he starts his happy prance - I carry a squeaky toy that I use to distract him.

    This worked for Boomer. There are probably other ways, more lab-appropriate ways to get Buddy to walk loose on a leash. Because although Boomer's a lively nine, Buddy's an even livelier two. A world of difference in energy.

 



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